“Returnism” / Diamonds are Forever

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Koh-i-Noor was the world’s largest uncut diamond at almost 800 carats and it was mined in Andhra Pradesh, India. It its current form, it has been cut down to 105 carats — apparently there were several sloppy stone cutters over the years. Huge & lovely, it is literally the center stone in crown of the Queen of England’s crown jewels. Presuming the status quo is maintained, Kate will get to wear it when Wills takes the throne…

In 1849 the stone was stolen by the British East India Company and in 1850 it was presented to Queen Victoria. Or, in an alternate interpretation (depending on which side of history you choose): it was surrendered to the Queen as per the terms of the Treaty of Lahore. Although, I’m not sure that they are materially different, since the treaty was more window-dressing for the Company’s occupation of Punjab than an equitably negotiated agreement.

Random Fact: The diamond is supposed to bring men bad luck; it can only be worn safely by Gods and Women.

There is a movement here to have the diamond returned — like many other artifacts taken from their indigenous places that end up in imperialist/colonist/Western museums and private collections. Similar to other country’s demands for “art repatriation.” Others think it could symbolically make up for the atrocities of colonialism, more akin to atonement or cultural reparations.

Last year, David Cameron was widely reported to have shot down that notion. When visiting Amritsar, India (the scene of the horrific 1919 massacre of unarmed civilians by British soldiers during the Raj), he was asked about the diamond. Cameron reportedly replied, “They’re not having that back.” According to multiple reports, he went on to say, “No, I certainly don’t believe in ‘returnism’, as it were. I don’t think that is sensible.” (To be fair, I’m sure The British Prime Minister was worried about precedent with respect the other “looted” objects in the British Museum that the Egyptians and Greeks want returned, too — not just the Queen’s bling!)

I remember going to Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY with my friend Simon to see the Euphronios Krater (a lovely terra cotta urn) before it was returned to Italy. And I have seen the crown jewels in the Tower of London. Given the choice, I’d prefer the Indian diamond to the Italian urn…
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Note #1 (legal): All photos are believed to be in the public domain. If any images come into dispute and are contested legally by an official source, they will be removed.
Note #2 (fun): Lots of interesting British crown facts on this blog, too.

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World Cup: Expats cheer more

I confess that I do not follow “football”. Luckily for me, that’s not a cultural offence here in India!

Nevertheless, I am thrilled by the USA [first round] victory in the World Cup!!! And the “6th fastest” goal in World Cup history. I’m pretty sure I am more enthusiastic about this as an Expat than I would be at home in New York. Something about being a foreigner makes one try to find associations with & connections to “home” in any way possible. Even non-soccer fans celebrating victory for a game they didn’t watch in a tournament format they understand only loosely.

Go Team U-S-A! Fingers crossed for round two!!

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Moon Tower, Satkhanda

This Tower of Pisa- like structure is the the Satkhanda, an unfinished tower for viewing the moon. It was suppose the be an additional 3 stories higher. It was commissioned by Nawab Mohammad Ali Shah in 1842.

I’ve learned from various sources that it was built to (a) honour his favourite daughter and allow her to view the moon (although she died before it was completed), (b) afford the Nawab a bird’s eye view of his beloved city, and/or (c) allow clerics to better view the moon and dictate festivals on the lunar calendar, depending on the tale.

It remains unfinished due to the Nawab’s death and some suspicions that it may be bad luck. (The princess’s death, the fact that the Nawab twisted his ankle whilst visiting and — unrelated to the ankle– the Nawab’s death during construction; all of which contributed to rumours of bad luck.) It stands as a sort if folly now, amid horses and dogs, while the archeological society tries to raise funds to complete it.

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The tower photo was from last week in Lucknow. But tonight (Fri the 13th) is the “honey moon”. I looked for it on my roof terrace here in Bangalore, but it’s pretty cloudy… And it’s not orange nor champagne in colour.

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Update: Sat the 14th — the moon was HUGE and orange! Guess the Friday the 13th Honey Moon was the North American phenomenon and ours here in India was the next day….

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Dilkusha Kothic

This hunting lodge was built around 1800 by a British resident for the local ruler, Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. Originally a hunting lodge, it morphed into a summer resort, too. It was shelled during its the Lucknow siege in 1857 (part of the “Indian Rebellion”) together with other British & British inspired institutions.20140608-202017-73217958.jpg

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View from the Top…

Taking a break from chikan shopping (that’s the beautiful local hand embroidery from Lucknow; not the fowl). We’re at a the tallest restaurant in town– enjoying the A/C and the cricket practice and (of course) the local cuisine… Veg “Galawat Kebab”– which means “melt in your mouth”. Yum!

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Our purchases — we filled a sofa, and that was just our haul before the lunch break:

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Boys school

A & I visited La Martiniere (http://lamartinierelucknow.org), the historic boys school in Lucknow. The boys were on summer break — so A did not find a boy toy. However, we did find a couple of Tipu Sultan’s canons from our “home state” of Karnataka. Apparently after Tipu’s defeat to the British outside of Mysore, La Martinier’s patron, Major Gen Claude Martin (a Frenchmen fighting with the English… long story), ended up with these canons & brought them north. Small world, I guess…

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Lucknow…Hot Now!

It’s 114F at 9am here in Lucknow (Northern India). A & I are off to sightsee until the heat drives us into air conditioned stores for shopping.

The architecture here is beautiful. This is an amazing gate the Rumi Darwaza. It was built by Nawab Asaf-Ud-dowlah in 1784, 60 feet high, inspired by a gateway in Istanbul.

Historically, the top sported a huge lantern that would illuminate the structure at night & little jets of water would rush out of the sides of the arch from beautifully carved flower buds thus making it look like a gateway to Paradise.

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View from the top

Taking a break from chikan shopping (that’s the beautiful local hand embroidery from Lucknow; not the fowl). We’re at a the tallest restaurant in town– enjoying the A/C and the cricket practice and (of course) the local cuisine… Veg “Galawat Kebab”– which means “melt in your mouth”. Yum!

20140607-141526-51326881.jpg

Our purchases — we filled a sofa, and that was just our haul before the lunch break:

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Lucknow… Hot now!

It’s 114F at 9am here in Lucknow (Northern India). A & I are off to sightsee until the heat drives us into air conditioned stores for shopping.

The architecture here is beautiful. This is an amazing gate the Rumi Darwaza. It was built by Nawab Asaf-Ud-dowlah in 1784, 60 feet high, inspired by a gateway in Istanbul.

Historically, the top sported a huge lantern that would illuminate the structure at night & little jets of water would rush out of the sides of the arch from beautifully carved flower buds thus making it look like a gateway to Paradise.

20140607-111235-40355108.jpg

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Side trip to Coorg

I accepted a last minute invite to join friends in the country side of Coorg over the weekend. This was a simple home stay, rather than the posh hotel I visited last time, but perfect in its own way. Hiking, swimming, watching a thunderstorm from the terrace, strolling through coffee estates and relaxing. Such a lovely little break even if only for an overnight stay!

20140513-230314.jpgsunset over the river…

PS I swam in the river. With crocodiles! Well, I mean there are crocs in the river somewhere, I didn’t actually see any.

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